
Atlantic light · Portugal
Algarve
The Algarve does three things better than anywhere: cliff paths above turquoise coves, fish straight from the Atlantic onto a grill, and a winter that never quite arrives.
The southern coast of Portugal has become the place where northern Europeans go to keep walking in January. The Seven Hanging Valleys trail near Carvoeiro, the Rota Vicentina and its Fishermen’s Trail along the wild west coast, and the salt marsh paths of the Ria Formosa near Tavira offer weeks of coastal walking with a swim, or at least a paddle, at the end of every stretch.
The food is Atlantic Mediterranean: sardines and sea bream grilled over charcoal, cataplana stews of fish and shellfish, octopus with sweet potato, bread with olive oil, oranges and almonds, and a glass of vinho verde. Markets in Loulé and Olhão are among the best in the country. Golf, surf, cycling and a growing number of wellness resorts fill the rest of the calendar.
Avoid the resort strips of July and August. Come in spring for the almond blossom and wild flowers, in autumn for warm seas and empty trails, or in winter for sun at 17 degrees when it is dark and wet at home.
The longevity profile
- Best months
- Feb · Mar · Apr · May · Jun · Sep · Oct · Nov
- Ideal stay
- 7 to 10 days
- Budget
- €€€€
- Night from
- €120
Signature ritual: A cliff walk to a cove and a cold Atlantic swim, then grilled fish with your feet in the sand.
A day in Algarve
From first light to last light.
- 07:00Seven Hanging Valleys
The cliff trail from Praia da Marinha, six kilometres of arches, blowholes and coves, empty at this hour.
- 09:00Breakfast
Bread, cheese, fruit, a galão coffee on a terrace above the sea.
- 11:00The cove
A swim at Praia da Marinha or Benagil, cold, clear, sharp.
- 13:00Lunch
Grilled sardines with salad and boiled potatoes, or a cataplana for two, at a beach restaurant.
- 15:00Rest
Siesta or a book under an umbrella.
- 17:00West coast
A drive to Sagres for a surf lesson or a walk on the Fishermen’s Trail.
- 19:00Cabo de São Vicente
Sunset at the end of Europe, then dinner in Sagres.
Good to know
Tips for Algarve.
- The west coast around Sagres and Aljezur is wild and windy; the central coast around Carvoeiro is sheltered; the east around Tavira is calm and flat. Choose by what you want to do.
- The Fishermen’s Trail of the Rota Vicentina can be walked in stages of 15 to 22 kilometres with luggage transfers.
- February brings almond blossom and empty roads; November is warm and quiet.
- Olhão market on Saturday is the best fish market in the south.
- Even in winter, the sea is for the brave: 16 degrees. The brave say it is the best part.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Algarve good in winter?
It has the mildest winter in mainland western Europe: around 17 degrees by day, plenty of sun, few tourists. Ideal for walking, cycling and golf.
Which part of the Algarve is best for a quiet health trip?
The east around Tavira for calm and flat walks, the west around Aljezur for wild coast and surf. The central strip between Albufeira and Vilamoura is the busiest.
What is a cataplana?
A copper clam-shaped pan and the seafood stew cooked in it: fish, shellfish, onions, peppers, tomatoes and herbs, served for two.
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